Disco EDC to mechanical fuel injection pump

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kingsonlim
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Joined: Tue Jun 05, 2007 3:06 pm
Location: Sherburn in Elmet
Full Name: Kingson Lim

Disco EDC to mechanical fuel injection pump

Postby kingsonlim » Mon Oct 25, 2010 4:39 pm

Here is my report to the recent changes I've made to my 97' 300tdi auto with EDC fuel injection pump to the standard 300tdi with mechanical fuel pump.

Items required:

- 300tdi fuel injection pump (200tdi's dont work), with or without EGR potentiometer
- standard 300tdi fuel injectors x 4
- fuel injection pipes from pump to injectors
- kick down cable bracket from standard 300tdi auto
- length of wire with a space connector at one end

Procedures:

- remove EDC fuel injection pipes
- remove EDC fuel injectors
- remove EDC electronic fuel injection pump (A)
- unplug ECU (B)
- attach standard mechanical fuel injection pump (C)
- attach standard fuel injectors
- attach standard fuel injection pipes
- bleed fuel from system (D)
- attach throttle cable & kick down cable
- done and start commissioning with engine running

(A) :

- remove fan
- remove fan cowl
- remove crank pulley
- remove timing cover
- set crank & cam to TDC
- loose 8mm allen bolt to timing belt tensioner
- remove timing belt
- remove sprocket on injection pump
- unplug electrical connectors, 2 pieces
- remove 3 x 13mm nut at front of pump attaching to timing case
- remove 2 x bolts securing injection pump to engine block, 10mm bolt, 13mm nut
- lift out injection pump

(B) :

- remove plastic securing plug on driver's side kick panel
- lift out kick panel
- ECY is just above all the relays behind kick panel
- use a short spade screw driver, prise out/loosen ECU socket securing pin, then pull down the securing pin with finger, you can then remove the 55 pin plug to ECU

(C) :

- attach mechanical fuel injection pump to timing case
- attach 3 x 13mm nut securing to timing case
- attach 2 nuts and bolts securing to engine block, 13mm nut, 10mm bolt
- loosely attach timing belt sprocket onto injection pump
- use a 22mm socket, turn the injection pump sprocket until a 9mm drill bit can be slotted into the TDC locking hole on injection pump
- attach timing belt. To tighten timing belt, first use an breaker bar with a 6 inch long 1/2 inch size extension. There's a slot on timing belt tensional plate where the extension can be slotted in and give leverage for tightening tensioner. After timing belt tensioner is tighten, tighten the 3 10mm nut on injection pump sprocket.
- check that timing belt is spot on TDC. To check on that, woodruff key on crank shaft should be vertically straight pointing to top. There should be a mark on cam sprocket, that should be pointing at 7 o'clock. Use mirror to check the cam sprocket marking is inline to an 'arrow' on timing case. Lastly, make sure the 9mm drill bit is still slotted into the injection pump locking hole
- attach timing cover
- remove 3 x 10mm bolt on timing cover for the injection pump inspection cover, then remove the cover for injection pump adjustment & commissioning (E)
- attach crank pulley
- attach fan belt
- attach fen and cowl

(D) :

- loosen 10mm bolt on top of fuel filter housing
- toggle the lever on fuel lift pump. If no pressure is felt, turn the crank shaft till pressure is felt
- once fuel starts flowing out from the bleed screw without air bubbles, tighten bleed screw

(E) Commissioning & adjustment on injection pump :

- with the timing belt on, loosen the 3 x 10mm bolt on injection pump sprocket. Then use 22mm socket, turn the center plate on the sprocket to the left, put a mark on the center plate and sprocket, then turn the center plate to the right and mark on sprocket. Then turn the center plate back to the middle. Tighten the 3 x 10mm bolt.
- start the engine, listen to the engine running. If it runs a little rough, repeat the above procedures, and move the center plate on injection pump sprocket either left (advance) or right (retard) to get the engine running smoothly. Do each adjustment at 1mm each time.
- adjust throttle cable tightness as well as kick down cable tightness. Throttle cable should have about 1mm free play when you move it left to right. Kick down cable should be all the way in the cable sleeve before throttle is depressed. Adjust idling screw. Standard idling for auto is about 750 + 30 rpm
- once you are satisfied with the engine running, attach the injection pump inspection cover

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Matthews
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Joined: Sat Jan 06, 2007 2:45 pm
Location: Leeds
Full Name: Matthew Sykes

Postby Matthews » Mon Oct 25, 2010 7:32 pm

Make sure you don't get the return banjo bolt in the inlet hole !!!! doesn't work very well when you do that does it Kingson .
Matthew

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Zedman
Posts: 440
Joined: Mon Feb 08, 2010 9:19 pm
Location: Knaresborough
Full Name: Richard Bentley

Erm

Postby Zedman » Mon Oct 25, 2010 9:34 pm

I was looking for a Diesel cos I thought they were simpler and less to go wrong, I just put petrol in mine, albeit lots of petrol, and spray it with WD40 every day, reading your report is scary )
Jeep wrangler / Defender owner
If its not rattling its more than likely fallen off !

bandiflip
Posts: 1154
Joined: Sat Sep 13, 2008 9:14 pm
Location: Bradford
Full Name: phil johnson

Postby bandiflip » Mon Oct 25, 2010 9:36 pm

Thats a modification tho........not normal maintenance....relax 8) 8)
do you know the meaning of Nemesis ???

kingsonlim
Posts: 422
Joined: Tue Jun 05, 2007 3:06 pm
Location: Sherburn in Elmet
Full Name: Kingson Lim

Postby kingsonlim » Tue Oct 26, 2010 7:08 am

Matthews wrote:Make sure you don't get the return banjo bolt in the inlet hole !!!! doesn't work very well when you do that does it Kingson .
Matthew


somehow knew you would bring that up.... :oops:

yeah...we spent the whole afternoon trying to find out why the engine wouldn't rev......other wise, it would have been done in half the day....

Richard...don't worry so much....as far as I know, only certain spec disco (jap- reimport) has them EDC rubbish. As you are getting a defender, they are very simple to work with.


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