Crankshaft Damper bolt

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Bo
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Postby Bo » Fri Nov 19, 2010 12:01 am

Mark, honestly you are better off using the starter motor to undo the bolt as there is a lot less chance of doing any damage to the motor or you. Just think, would you swing on a 3 foot bar on two 8mm bolts or on a couple of flywheel teeth? When you put it back together use a dab of thread lock.
5/4 of people admit that they’re bad with fractions.

dave willard
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Postby dave willard » Fri Nov 19, 2010 12:38 am

Bo wrote:Mark, honestly you are better off using the starter motor to undo the bolt as there is a lot less chance of doing any damage to the motor or you. Just think, would you swing on a 3 foot bar on two 8mm bolts or on a couple of flywheel teeth? When you put it back together use a dab of thread lock.


I AGREE TRY IT

DAVE

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varleym
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Postby varleym » Fri Nov 19, 2010 8:09 am

Ok - I'll try this over the weekend and let you know how I get on.

Just as an aside, when it comes to re-assembly - how do I hold the crank to enable me to torque the nut up sufficiently (I've got an air wrench - would that do?).

Cheers

Mark

kingsonlim
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Postby kingsonlim » Fri Nov 19, 2010 9:55 am

Mark,

I agree with all of them that it's safer using the starter motor to undo the bolt. If you are only using the crank pulley locking tool, all the strain will be put on the woodruff key. If you then add a crank position tool (through bell housing), which is only 5mm thick, you will bend it in no time. I've not seen the starter gear locking tool Dave Willard has yet, so can't comment on that.

However, you are left with no choice but using the various locking tool on re-assembly. But I guessed that's easier as the thread lock compound is still wet-ish at that time, hence will have less strain on the various locking tool.

TwoSheds
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Postby TwoSheds » Fri Nov 19, 2010 2:10 pm

Bo wrote:Mark, honestly you are better off using the starter motor to undo the bolt as there is a lot less chance of doing any damage to the motor or you. .

Flying tommy-bars Batman!

I just used my air gun and patience. Each time I ran the gun until the compressor started then waited and let it recover. There was no apparent movement for - perhaps 15 or twenty such cycles and then it came undone. Might not work every time, I have only tried it twice (diffferent engines) but it worked both times...

dave willard
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Postby dave willard » Fri Nov 19, 2010 4:33 pm

varleym wrote:Ok - I'll try this over the weekend and let you know how I get on.

Just as an aside, when it comes to re-assembly - how do I hold the crank to enable me to torque the nut up sufficiently (I've got an air wrench - would that do?).

Cheers

Mark


Use the air wrench on highest setting, ( this is what most garages do)If you want to lock the crank remove the starter motor (not a bad idea anyway to lube the sliding shaft) & hold the crank using a bar or something on the teeth Improvise you could make a suitable tool using a square tube cutting it with angle grinder This will need to be held by a helper

You could follow my prev guide but I would check it regularly as they have been known to work loose on 200 not so bad on 300
It shouldnt need to be very tight if using a locking compound but make shure the thead is free from grease etc to allow the locking compund to work Mark with paint so you can see if it moves

On one engine I stripped down the crank pulley was loose

WHY -- the person who must have refitted it had thought it a good idea to use plenty of grease on the bolt possibley putting some into the crank
SO the grease in the blind hole in the crank prevented the bolt from going home tight

If you are changing cam belt etc use torque wrench on tensioner as per manual

Here is a procedure I use that is not in the manual when refitting cam belt-

fit the cam belt tension up approx using torque wrench NOTE DO NOT FORGET TO FIT CRANK PULLEY & BOLT FINGERTIGHT+ OR THE DRIVE SPROCKET MAY MOVE OUT CAUSING THE BELT TO SLIP OFF - then spin the engine on starter or run it for a few seconds (does not matter if no water in block for a very short time . Then re tension accuratley
this procedure ensures belt self lined up before setting tension
Dave

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Bo
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Postby Bo » Fri Nov 19, 2010 5:27 pm

TwoSheds wrote:Flying tommy-bars Batman!
I just used my air gun and patience.


I have had two now where a 3/4 snap on air knocker would not move them and it got the the stage where I was concerned about the damage it was doing to the thrust bearings!
Just wedge the bar against the chassis and click the starter, no drama and nothing flying about.
Simples
5/4 of people admit that they’re bad with fractions.

bandiflip
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Postby bandiflip » Fri Nov 19, 2010 5:59 pm

Bo is right,We do it on the Jag V8's at work,a quick flick of the starter is all thats needed...
The crankshaft is only strong when its in position and doing its job,if ya start jigging in about with an impact gun you could do things it doesnt like,with Bo's way,its only the bolt getting it .....and the bar.
Go on...be a devil !
do you know the meaning of Nemesis ???

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varleym
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Postby varleym » Fri Nov 19, 2010 6:37 pm

Success - couple of flicks of the starter and it came loose no probs.

Thanks fellas.

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Matthews
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Postby Matthews » Fri Nov 19, 2010 8:22 pm

I also use the starter method to undo and know a lot of other trade places that do the main (inc main dealers).
Matthew

kingsonlim
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Postby kingsonlim » Fri Nov 19, 2010 8:40 pm

Mark....do you still need the crank locking tool?

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varleym
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Postby varleym » Fri Nov 19, 2010 9:25 pm

No thanks Kingson, but thanks for the offer.

Cheers

Mark

kingsonlim
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Postby kingsonlim » Fri Nov 19, 2010 9:53 pm

how are you going to lock the crank while tightening the crank bolt???? :roll:

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varleym
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Postby varleym » Fri Nov 19, 2010 10:02 pm

Kingson - I was going to whip the starter motor off, jam something in the flywheel then with plenty of thread lock on the bolt, use my air gun on full speed/torque to tighten it up. Do you think I'd be better using your holding tool?

Cheers

Mark

kingsonlim
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Postby kingsonlim » Fri Nov 19, 2010 10:17 pm

with yours being a 200tdi, and the crank bolt needs to be tighten to crazy torque, I would want to lock the crank from multiple location.

crank damper bolt torque - 200tdi......340 NM or 251 lbft
crank damper bolt torque - 300tdi......80 NM or 59 lbft...then another quarter turn

I will pass the locking tool to Richard anyway. Just remember to bring it to Briedcliffe, so I can pass on to Matthew.


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