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I have a small compressor (big enough for the job, though) and a 'schutz-gun'.
My questions are:
1. If I fill a schutz can with waxoil and warm it (per instructions) - would the applicator work ok?
2. Is waxoil good enough to warrant the extra cost? (I notice that the waxoil can claims to have rust-killing and rust-inhibiting properties, as opposed to schutz which just covers it with gloop...)
I'm not looking for 25 year life or concourse looks here, I just don't want to be welding it again in 2 years (6 years would be fine)
p.s. I reserve the right to ignore good advice and make a total botch of it (as usual) at my discretion .
From many discussions on other forums and round the table in the pub, Dinitrol AV30 is probably the best way forward. You need to pressure wash and ensure everything is perfectly clean and dry before applying something like this as any moisture gets trapped behind the wax and runs rampant. www.silmid.com sell it (not cheap but you can buy with your flexible friend)
http://secure.silmid.com/action_catalog ... 1=dinitrol
Dinitrol AV30 is a water dispersant, rust inhibitor and waxy finish. For things like chassis rails you can then put a coat of Schutz over the top to protect you from scrapes and dinks. Another good idea is to get the hot-dipped-galvo-in-a-spraycan stuff first - forget the name, but a place in Ripon (Dalamires Estate?) sell it - it's what they use for touching up Galvanised stuff after repairs, and put this on before protecting with waxy stuff for maximum life.
"It seemed like a good idea at the time..."
You are right of course, it's the stuff that is commonly mentioned as the best on classic car forums (fora?) - Unfortunately though, I have already dismissed Dinitrol due to cost... Roughly TEN TIMES that of Schutz! Thanks for the suggestion - but I am afraid that it's out of my range (rover)
Given the choice between waxoil and schutz I'd go with waxoil both inside and outside the chassis. I'd also use it where you can on the inside of steel structures such as door pillars on RRC and Bulkhead on a Defender.
The Schutz gun can be used to apply it, especially on the outside, works reasonably well on the inside too with the extension tube although you will need to play around with pressures/temp to get a decent covering.
The problem I find with schutz, like most underbody sprays of it's kind, is that it forms a skin which, eventually water gets behind. It traps water between itself and the steel allowing the steel to rot away behind it. Waxoil doesn't seem to suffer from that as much.
I'd definately agree with Dave , Shutz is a stone chip protection/sound deadener and not a rust prevention, waxoil isn't as good as it says on the tin but does work pretty well, I'd recommend the black waxoil (a mixture of waxoil with a bit of shutz added for extra protection) for all external surfaces and the clear for all cavities, when doing this sort of job at work I use a shutz gun to apply it but be warned it's a very messy job !! Redo the black on exposed surfaces every couple of years and it should avoid future welding for quite a while.
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