No its not broken its just an ongoing resoration project )

[davew]

Range Rover seats are going in the bin this weekend with any luck so if you do want to try them out you'll need to let me know quickly.

The Britpart disks from Paddocks or Maddisons are fine, I have run them on mine for years.

[Zedman]

Dave if they are going in the bin I will definatly take them off you as I hate waste and will probably end up kicking myself when I realise I need them later, thanks, when would you prefer I pop around ?

[Zedman]

Now I understand why you folks love Landy's so much, so many bits to buy, so many things to fix / improve, they are a constant source of fun, its like Lego but on a bigger scale.

This weeks shopping list:

Torque Wrench as as don't mind borrowing once but after that its good excuse to but a new toy )

Tap and Die set, now this was a bit of a compromise and i will let you know how the new cheapo set performs, did a few searches and spotted the name 'Dormer' I have used Dormer taps in the past with no complaints but a heavy hand will break any tap, BUT and its a BIG but £400 to £800 for a set, I nearly fainted, went for a cheapo set at £43 will treat them very gently and for my occasional use I hope they will suffice.

New discs and pad kit for the rear axle (existing discs are a mess)

Plastic rivets for the arches, (at 13p each they add up )

2 Diff guards

Full set of wheel bearing kits (Timpken) at £15 a corner

Wheel bearing spanner

Service kit, oil filter, air filter and some washers for the sump plug.

Future plans incude a mid range MIG welder, and I am wondering if my BOC account is still active after all these years (phone calls tomorrow should find out), if anyone has a spare Argon sheild bottle for sale please let me know.

2 days in a row I have stepped out of the house and looked at the Jeep and the Defender and picked the Defender, Jeep tomorrow though cos I feel guilty about neglegting him.

[Zedman]

Mig gas foot note

Best I have found so far is

http://www.adamsgas.co.uk/stat_ind_prod ... 4wodNzieOg

[Bo]

Richard, with regards to the tap and die set, as long as they are HSS (High Speed Steel) and not carbon steel they should do anything you need. I added to my collection with a metric set from Screwfix last year, with the exception of the tap wrench and die holder, which are a bit basic, the rest of the kit is of a fair quality.
http://www.screwfix.com/prods/12834/Hand-Tools/Tap-Die-Sets/HSS-Steel-Tap-and-Die-Set-51Pc#
For one offs or oddball sizes I use RDGTools in Hebden Bridge, they are a hobby engineering supplier and very friendly.
http://www.rdgtools.co.uk/acatalog/TAP_&_DIE_SET_S.html
The important thing with taps is to use exactly the right size tapping drill and a Zeus Book is a mine of information for all things drill and tap related.
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ZEUS-PRECISION-DATA-BOOK-CHARTS-%26-REFERENCE-TABLES-NEW_W0QQitemZ190330584557QQcmdZViewItem?rvr_id=166284138449&rvr_id=166284138449&cguid=889abefc1280a0e203913fb1fefe5e0a

[Matthews]

Richard, I'm afraid there's 2 bearings each corner (inner and outer) and £15 each for genuine Timkens is a bloody goodprice so double your total and don't forget to add hub oil seals, check the stub axle for any pitting where the seal runs as if it's pitted it's goosed . (will let oil out and water in killing the bearings ) and they're £50 to £80 a corner dependent on which ones they are, get new lock washers (could be tab or flat) aswell.
Matthew

[nicks90]

Matthew
paddocks and all the usual glossies are doing timken bearings for £7+vat each at the moment. But you are right, once you add in the proper hub seals (the early double lipped seals are best imho) drive flange gaskets and lock tabs its more like £30 a corner.

Also if you find some very mild pitting on the hub seal seat of the stub axle, its not the end of the world. It isnt a load bearing area so you can get away with 'resurfacing' the surface. In the past i have done a front stub axle on mine with chemical metal. Very thin smear over the surface and left it to cure and then spent quite some time with wet and dry and sanded it back to bare metal again. This left it lovely and smooth and has been leak free since. I need to find some time and do the back left stub now, as thats leaking slightly and has quite bad scoring on it.
If you find pitting or scoring on any part of the stub axle - other than where the hub oil seal sits - then its junk i'm afraid.

Also be aware that most torque wrenches do not go low enough for the hub nut torque, and most hub nut spanners are open ended and dont have a socket on them anyway. If thats the case setting the torque on the first nut is a bit of trial and error. Method I use is to assemble the hub and slide it on and do the first nut up tight enough that i can feel 'dragging' when i spin the hub. Then i undo the nut 1/8th turn at a time until the drag disappears. Put the lock tab on then the seocnd nut and do that one up to the much higher torque specified in the manual. I welded a bit of plate on the end of my hub spanner and welded a junk 13mm socket to it, so i can put my torque wrench on it to tighten the second nut properly.

you might find after a few miles the hub needs nipping up again once its bedded in. Its very much trial and error until you get used to the 'feel' of how tight the nuts needs doing up. So expect to have to tighten them up soonish after doing them. You will get used to it,

Nick

[TwoSheds]

Somebody wanting bucket seats - maybe swap?
http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=62169&pid=539066&st=0&#entry539066

[Zedman]

Thanks for all the tips and advice, if the weather at the weekend is good I should be very busy )

[Zedman]

Found a handy You Tube vid for the bearings, virtualy what you said Nick, I might make one of those seal removers just because the look nifty )

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O4A9MTOOC60

[tecnick]

It doesnt take me as long as nine minutes, what is he messing around at?



Cheers Nick

[Zedman]

for once I broke my golden rule, only buy good quality tools, and boy was I disappointed.

I am not sure about other Sealey products but never get a tap and die set from them, mine is going straight back even before I have even used it.

Without going into graphic details every thing that could be cheap and nasty is (

Luckily I got it from Amazon so should be no issues with a refund.

[Zedman]

Found an intersting little series of Land Rover maintanence films on you tube

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=srfMD9eq9u8

7 parts in all I just linked the first )

Treat the vids as a guide to show you what is involved not the gospel as I keep cringing now and again (and he cuts out all the tricky bits)

Reading it in the Haynes manual is fine but for a first timer if you can see someone else doing it (good or bad) it makes the operation a bit simpler), just miss out the bad bits.

I notice he does not even mention setting the tracking (toe in - toe out) after changing steering rods) and in a later video he mentions anodised coating on steel radius arms. to be fair he probably does this but in the heat of making a video and sets the tracking later, so as an extra source of info quite handy but if you are not 100% sure of what you are doing seek guidence or get Mathew to do it (or as many of us do suck it and be prepared to take our chances)

[davew]

Re the tap and die set, I used a cheap (and pretty nasty) set as a basis for mine and then have gradually bought improved taps/dies and chucks as I've gone along.

Ripon Engineering sell the individual tap sets and dies, they normally have them in stock in both imperial and metric. M6 M8 and M10 cover 99% of jobs with maybe 3/8 and 5/16 UNF and UNC.

The skip is being collected a week on Monday so the seats can be picked up anytime between then and now

[Zedman]

Had the cover off today, everything looked okay to my untrained eye, some pictures below what do you folks reckon ?

and a few more views in the next post