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davew
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Postby davew » Mon Nov 15, 2010 9:50 am

In all day if you want to come and sort through the skip :)

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Zedman
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Full Name: Richard Bentley

Cheers

Postby Zedman » Mon Nov 15, 2010 10:36 am

Cheers, be round in about 1/2 an hour )
Jeep wrangler / Defender owner
If its not rattling its more than likely fallen off !

kingsonlim
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Postby kingsonlim » Mon Nov 15, 2010 8:08 pm

Richard......the bolt spacings on the Nato hitch is 85mm across and 35mm top to bottom (from center of bolt holes to center of bolt holes).

I am using M10 x 80 12.9 grade allen bolt. Unsure of thread pitch.

You need to measure the thickness of your rear cross member (X mm) so that i can get the bolt of the correct length. Thickness of the Nato hitch is 40mm, back plate will be either 8mm or 10mm. So length of bolt will be 40 + X + 10 + 20 (nut)...

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Zedman
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Nato Hitch

Postby Zedman » Mon Nov 15, 2010 8:43 pm

I think we may have to drill new holes onsight, I will bring a drill and bits

Re bolt length I would say 80mm

The 4 smalls holes are M12 x 1.75, the other 2 are bigger approx 17mm ??

as follows, hitch 40 + bumper 2+ captive nuts already on bumper 12+ back plate 10 + nuts 10 = 74 so 80 mm bolt length should have a a bit of margin.

spacing seems different to the existing holes maybe someone can shed some light on them but pics below to make it a little clearer, and a pic of the wheels, spare is in black the other 4 are silver, tread depth on the other 4 is close to the spare but bear in mind the side wall damage on a couple of them, spacers are 30 mm I think.
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Jeep wrangler / Defender owner

If its not rattling its more than likely fallen off !

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Matthews
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Postby Matthews » Mon Nov 15, 2010 8:59 pm

Richard , the pads you've taken out are the wrong ones not the calipers, the new pad in the photo is correct for the caliper in the photo but you will need a pin and spring kit to fit them, the pads you've taken out are 110 rear pads (late model) AFAIAA.
Matthew
PS my ninety arrived with exactly the same setup ie wrong pads in the back when it was purchased a couple of years ago.

repton
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Full Name: Paul Everett

Postby repton » Mon Nov 15, 2010 9:01 pm

This is the crappy diagram I made up 6 or 7 years ago when I wanted a backplate with captive nuts welded on it making up to suit my tank guard and nato hitch. He made one for me and one for Tim and they both fitted so the numbers must be something like right.

Paul
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kingsonlim
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Postby kingsonlim » Mon Nov 15, 2010 9:06 pm

measurement taken from Nato Hitch itself is....87mm across, 45mm top to bottom........so, it will bolt straight on to the top 4 holes......also found some 6mm plates around to be used as back plate.

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Zedman
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Cheers

Postby Zedman » Mon Nov 15, 2010 10:22 pm

Thanks Mathew, got the calipers out of Daves skip today, he confirmed what you said, right calipers wrong pads all sorted now.

Paul thank you for that Nato hitch drawing, much appreciated.
Jeep wrangler / Defender owner

If its not rattling its more than likely fallen off !

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Bo
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Postby Bo » Mon Nov 15, 2010 11:46 pm

I wouldn't recommend just drilling holes in the cross member and bolting on the nato, you need to make sure there are tubes inside to prevent it crushing either when you tighten it up or when you make a recovery, both of which will compromise safety.
Last edited by Bo on Tue Nov 16, 2010 4:51 pm, edited 2 times in total.
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TwoSheds
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Postby TwoSheds » Tue Nov 16, 2010 4:56 am

Bo wrote:I wouldn't recommend just drilling holes in the cross member and bolting on the nato, you need to make sure there are tubes in side to prevent it crushing eitherwhen you tighten it up or when you make a recovery, both of which will compromise safety.

Some people also weld huge thick spreader plates on the other side...

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Zedman
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Brake warning light

Postby Zedman » Tue Nov 16, 2010 7:39 pm

Just finished putting the new bearings, discs and pads on the rear, blead the system and everything seems to be working fine apart from the red brake warning light is now lit up and wont go out, fluid resovoir is 3/4 full and well above minimum, any suggestions please ?
Jeep wrangler / Defender owner

If its not rattling its more than likely fallen off !

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davew
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Postby davew » Tue Nov 16, 2010 8:34 pm

There are two different ways used of activating the brake warning light (3 if you include the transmission brake). the more modern systems use a simple switch on top of the reservoir so I'd start by looking at the reservoir cap and making sure that both wires are connected to it.

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Matthews
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Postby Matthews » Tue Nov 16, 2010 9:35 pm

Check the vavle thingy on the drivers footwell hasn't got any wires going to it (if it hasn't it's a rear brake pressure reducer, if it has then it's a shuttle valve assembly and you've shuttled it one way bleading the rear brakes).
Matthew

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Zedman
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Sounds like one of the 2 above.

Postby Zedman » Tue Nov 16, 2010 11:02 pm

It sounds like one of the 2 above, thanks for the help )

Is the fluid level sensor normaly closed or open ? ie can I short it out to see if this is the issue.

Mathew is the shuttle due to me bleeding the rear right before the rear left which is what I did, and how does one reset it if this is the case.

NB its too dam cold to check now i will do checks tomorrow after work )
Jeep wrangler / Defender owner

If its not rattling its more than likely fallen off !

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davew
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Postby davew » Tue Nov 16, 2010 11:19 pm

Can't remember which way around it is for certain but I think the fluid level version connects to earth to turn the light on because the handbrake switch lights the same warning lamp.


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