No its not broken its just an ongoing resoration project )

[Zedman]

Seems it was the simple solution, even though the resovoir was 2 thirds full seems it wanted more, topping it to the top sorted the issue, wish everything was that easy.

On my way back from Kingsons today some of the electrics died, indicators, fuel gauge and temp gauge, possibly more.

Took an indicator bulb out and there seems to be a dead short between both terminals of the socket, after some preliminary looking about I happened to notice at least 6 wires with exposed copper that were and not connected to anything at the back end and also one of the cables from the tow hitch was melted onto the exhaust. Seems I'm in for a day of re-wiring tomorrow, just hope the weather is good as it started raining mid inspection)

Ohh and just to put the icing on the cake when I fitted the new bonnet release cable first test and the handle came straight off the inner cable ((
Drilled it out, re-inserted the cable crimped it in the vice and soldered it for good measure.

[Zedman]

Bo you wrote

I wouldn't recommend just drilling holes in the cross member and bolting on the nato, you need to make sure there are tubes inside to prevent it crushing either when you tighten it up or when you make a recovery, both of which will compromise safety.


How do you get tubes inside as it seems to be a sealed compartment ? (I thought it was open at the back, now I see my error)

[davew]

I found a NATO hitch spreader plate in the garage today if you don't have one.

I think the rear cross member will already have crush tubes/plates inside it.

[kingsonlim]

I found a NATO hitch spreader plate in the garage today if you don't have one.

I think the rear cross member will already have crush tubes/plates inside it.

Made a spreader plate for Richard this morning with 10mm steel plate.

On Richard's rear bumper, the 4 holes for the Nato hitch are threaded. There is then a cover at the back with no holes drilled. No access is found to rear of bumper through the cover. Can't remember seeing any crush tubes in between. What's the best solution here?? (a) fit the Nato hitch to the rear bumper without a spreader plate (b) drill 4 holes on the rear cover, then fit a spreader plate behind it (c) drill 4 holes on the rear cover, add 4 crush tubes, then fit a spreader plate behind it ???

[Zedman]

It would seem the bumper has captive nuts only and no spacers, am sure one of you can explain how they managed to secure them inside a box section bumper )

Dave offering me a plate and kingson making me one are very much appreciated, thanks guys.

Seems my options are.

1. Try and drill holes in the back of the bumper and put some nylocs on so the load is spread on both faces with no spacers

2. Use a hole saw to take out the captive nuts and insert tubes (weld em in place) and fit a back plate.

3. Just rely on the 4 captive nuts.

My best guess is that nothing can rip the threads off 4 10mm high tensile bolts before breaking something else in the recovery chain

Even with a back plate you are relying on the nuts used to secure the back plate = the same as relying on the captive nuts, the only other fail I can see is that the rear bumper box section can get ripper apart which is pretty unlikley if it is normal british steel rolled section.

Ohh and Kingsom, that nato hitch seems to be an awsome bit of design(striped it down, cleaned it, greased it and repainting it) , minimul moving parts, low weight to strenght by design, add to that grease nipples, ease of use, and high quality steel that seems to resist rust, would be interesting to know how much Nato spent designing it )

[Bo]

When you fit crush tubes, don't forget the hole at the front should be the inside diameter of the tube and the one at the back a clearance on the outside diameter. The tubes should also be about 1mm short to allow everything to tighten up.

[Zedman]

Thanks Bo
I see what you mean, drill the holes from the back to fit the tubes, spread the load on both faces.

[Zedman]

Anyone got tips on the prefered mounting of a spare wheel on the inside of a Defender 90 hard top. I prefer to have it inside so it does not get covered in crap, or pinched or wreck the back door.

Also I finaly got the electrics sorted after cutting out all the melted bits and spent 2 hours under the thing 'tiding up' the wiring if you have never used self Amalgamating Tape before I suggest you add it to your tool kit, its a rubbery tape, you strech it to at least double its length while wrapping it round wiring and it sort of sets and bond to itself, still remains flexible but very neat and waterproof unlike PVC tape that hardens and peels

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll? ... K:MEWNX:IT

Three door locks fitted, seems all the black plastic clips on the door liners are designed to snap off ( so will be ordering more, any suggestions on who sells these please.


And during a blond moment I forgot to put the oil filler cap back on, is it something that a local motor factor will stock in the harrogate area ?

[Matthews]

Sound's like your bitsa may have a TD5 chassis as that's when they started fitting the captives in the crossmember due to the fuel tank being in the way to fut boltthrough tow hitches, personally I'd just bolt the nato straight into the captives as it's all reinforced and double/triple skinned in that area as it's the main tow point mount, the earlier chassis crossmember was a completely different design as it didn't have a fuel tank to contend with.
Bolt it to the floor.(spare wheel that is )
Matthew

[Zedman]

Thanks Mathew, always nice to have confirmation, seemed the logical choice but i always prefer to ask, and yes the last 2 foot at the back has been replaced at some time so its probably even a bitsa chassis

PS where do I get those black plastic door trim rivet things from please

[Matthews]

Local landy place, Maddison's , Ripon Land Rover , 4+4 whoever's closest/easiest.
Matthew

[Zedman]

Bolt it to the floor wasnt my first choice but thinking on it if i cut a circle of mdf it could make quite a nice cooking surface when camping and i can just chuck stuff on top of it otherwise + side is it dosen't block the view out of the back and its simple )

[Bo]

You could try and get hold of a series bulkhead mounting which mounts it vertically behind the bulkhead.
You can just see the bracket in this photo.

[Zedman]

Bo, my first thoughts was bolted to the bulk head but looking at that photo you have the spare on the bonnet, and seats in the back, now my kid and her mates have repeatadly asked me if they can ride in the back, and even before I said no due to lack of seat belts and the obvious physics of pasengers mounted side ways, the other parents said no chance.

I have already take the seats out bar one cushion that I can sit on while cooking in the back.

currently its a toss up from bulk head mount for more floor space and flat on the floor, i did consider mounting it verticaly above the arch on the oposite side to the fuel tank for balence and all that but lot of hassle making brackets etc.

I think I now have a decent plan for wheel, jack, extinguisher and petrol can, photos tommorow if it all works out.

[tecnick]

Whats wrong with the back door? put a lock on it, give it a bit of a wash now and then, smear of grease around your holes, job done. If you are worrired about the door hinges you can buy a rear swing away from me, I payed £50, make me an offer.

Cheers Nick