Novice building a wreck!
Help! may sound daft but follow the plot!
Bought 2 rubber couplings for prop shaft recently 1 to replace torn one and one as a spare but found after that the reason I'm destroying them is I have 4" lift on rear (while front is 2"). Adivce from that was to buy an off-road shaft with more angle on it. it came with 4 bolt holes at bottom end so had to buy adaptor(see pic). Am I right in saying that the adaptor replaces the plate in the rear diff, couples straight to the new shaft and the rubbers go in the bin? Am I doing the right thing? And what breaks instead of the rubbers?
Bought 2 rubber couplings for prop shaft recently 1 to replace torn one and one as a spare but found after that the reason I'm destroying them is I have 4" lift on rear (while front is 2"). Adivce from that was to buy an off-road shaft with more angle on it. it came with 4 bolt holes at bottom end so had to buy adaptor(see pic). Am I right in saying that the adaptor replaces the plate in the rear diff, couples straight to the new shaft and the rubbers go in the bin? Am I doing the right thing? And what breaks instead of the rubbers?
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My Discovery is showing signs that the rubber propshaft joint is going to fail soon and i am thinking of changing to a conventional propshaft. All my previous Land Rovers have had a standard propshaft and have given good service with the occasional joint change.
The flange nut requires setting to a specified torque and it is necessary to fit a new oil seal when replacing it.
This is all the info i have and some of the other club members may be able to help further.
Cheers Jim
The flange nut requires setting to a specified torque and it is necessary to fit a new oil seal when replacing it.
This is all the info i have and some of the other club members may be able to help further.
Cheers Jim
Jim Poulton
Hi Mate,
Just bin the rubber ring, it's about as much use a chocolate fireguard.
On the diff nose, you will now be left with a flange with three bolt holes and no obvious way of removing it. In the middle of the spigot that sticks out there should be a threaded hole, M8 from memory, find a set screw (a bolt with a thread that goes all the way to the head) that will screw in and is about 100mm long, then use it to carfully jack out the centre boss. Now you can remove the large nut that holds the flange on. When I changed mine I had to make a spacer as the conventional flange I used from a 90 axle was shorter on the splined section, hopefully if yours is part of a kit it should be right but compare it to the one you take out before fitting it. If you get stuck, give me a call on 07748767383.
Bo
Just bin the rubber ring, it's about as much use a chocolate fireguard.
On the diff nose, you will now be left with a flange with three bolt holes and no obvious way of removing it. In the middle of the spigot that sticks out there should be a threaded hole, M8 from memory, find a set screw (a bolt with a thread that goes all the way to the head) that will screw in and is about 100mm long, then use it to carfully jack out the centre boss. Now you can remove the large nut that holds the flange on. When I changed mine I had to make a spacer as the conventional flange I used from a 90 axle was shorter on the splined section, hopefully if yours is part of a kit it should be right but compare it to the one you take out before fitting it. If you get stuck, give me a call on 07748767383.
Bo
5/4 of people admit that they’re bad with fractions.
All good tips guys, David, I put two inch lift front and back and have had reasonable wear from my rubber thing, however the motor does look a bit lower at the back, I added some upside down spring seats to make it look taller but not really the answer. Is that why you went for four at the back?
How many inches has everyone else got?
Cheers Nick
P.S Dont Bin rubber bits, sell them to me in order to buy beer.
How many inches has everyone else got?
Cheers Nick
P.S Dont Bin rubber bits, sell them to me in order to buy beer.
If it ain't broke, I'd be bloody suprised.
When we originally built Rod's Rangie, it had the Starsky and Hutch stance so we swapped the springs front to rear and it sat nice and level but plus 2 inch. Now it's bobtailed that's a different barrel of cotton buds as the weight reduction has caused it to reach skyward again at the back and the TDi has pulled the front down. When I built the Disco I put the slightly longer springs on the front, my logic was that was the heavy end so would sink the most. It might be worth a swap front to rear. Have the springs got a colour code painted on them? If so it might be worth having a look here,
http://www.landroverclub.net/Club/HTML/Spring_rates.html
http://www.landroverclub.net/Club/HTML/Spring_rates.html
5/4 of people admit that they’re bad with fractions.
Well got the calling! "Get all of that crap out of my living room you *$@#er!!" from the wife, So taking next week off to get all the bits fitted. So expect stupid questions from me on here and keep your phones on!! Will add pics as I go along (like "where does this bit go?)
If I can't fix it, I bodge it!
Im not sure if this will help or not
I put a 2" lift on the rangie then bobtailed it and fitted a log burner at the front.
This made the car nose heavey.
So I them got some 3" lift springs for the front only which apears to have solved my problem
Having taken the 2" lift springs off they are sat on a self in the play room next to a set of standard disco front spring which are taller but I think the gadge is smaller.
The 2" spring are 390mm tail
The Disco springs are 410mm tail
Are you sure you have the correct springs for a log burner
I put a 2" lift on the rangie then bobtailed it and fitted a log burner at the front.
This made the car nose heavey.
So I them got some 3" lift springs for the front only which apears to have solved my problem
Having taken the 2" lift springs off they are sat on a self in the play room next to a set of standard disco front spring which are taller but I think the gadge is smaller.
The 2" spring are 390mm tail
The Disco springs are 410mm tail
Are you sure you have the correct springs for a log burner
Stercus fit !
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