Another 90 joins the pack ...............

[davew]

It does look as if the fuel tank mount has gone... it must be relying on the filler pipe to hold it in There should be two bolts at the back and one at the front which goes onto the bracket that bolts to the radius arm mount.

I'd remove the shocker mounts as a matter of course, looking at the corrosion around them they're probably hiding something.

Was that corrosion visible already or have you set about it with a hammer yet ?

BTW, very jealous of your garage !

[Bo]

If that's what it looks like on the outside, the question I would ask is whats the inside like. As Dave hinted at, it may be time for Landrover special tool number 1, to check the thickness of the rest of it.
To be honest if you can afford it I would put a galv chassis underneath it now and then put it back together as is and use it. Take it from me, (and Roger http://www.yorkshireoffroadclub.net/forum/viewtopic.php?t=449) it is very easy to end up with a project that takes forever to get done.
With a new chassis you have a good base to build on to which you can add to it in a progressive manner as and when funds allow.
Bo

[jim]

I agree with Bo it looks like its time for a galvanised chassis http://www.richardschassis.co.uk/defender.htm

[varleym]

Thanks for the tips fellas. I've given it a reasonable poke about with a big screwdriver but not the 'precision adjustment tool' yet. I'll hold my breath and have a go!

On the new chassis front, are all Defender 90 chassis the same or is a 300 TDi chassis different from say a TD5 or an earlier Defender one?

Cheers

Mark

[nicks90]

basic chassis is the same - but its best to specify what engine and box its for as the mounts are in different positions. Same with fuel tank etc.
If you order the wrong one you'll have the heartache of cutting mounts off and welding them back on in the right place.

you could always buy a none galv chassis if funds are tight and just religously wash and waxoyl it. Some will suck their teeth at this, but my '95 reg 90 still has no real corrosion on it and has the original crossmember. Having been waxoyled regularly by both myself and the previous owner its showing that a bit of care and maintanence does pay off.
Galv is fit and forget though to a certain extent....





ps. replacing a chassis will cost ALOT more than jsut the chassis. Once you start you'll have to factor in all the new bits you end up fitting like wiring, brake pipes etc etc etc these little things soon add up to some serious £. Dewsbury 4x4 do a re-chassis service and they reckon in parts alone for most of the jobs they do (they try and reuse as much as possible) you can effectively double the cost of the chassis.

[davew]

There are differences between them. Prior to TD5 the only real difference is the engine mounts.

When the TD5 was introduced as well as introducing a different engine mount they redesigned the rear cross member so they could move the fuel tank to the rear. The TD5 rear cross member also doesn't have the body mounts on it, instead it uses what is basically a piece of angle iron that bolts to the top of the cross member. With the fuel tank blocking access the TD5 cross member is supposed to have captive bolts and a spreader plate built in for fitting a towing bar.

The TD5 also has a strangle hole in the rear cross member that, it seems, is only there for towing electrics to sit in.

If you do go with Richards Chassis, as I did with Pam's 90, they will build any combination you want. Pam's is a standard V8 90 chassis with an old style rear cross member but with the TD5 tank mounts. Their chassis are heavier duty than the original with deeper chassis rails.

[varleym]

OK - removed the rear shocker mounts and after copious doses of the precision adjustment tool it seems like the rot is confined to the area just in front of the shocker mounts on the top of the chassis and a little bit at the side.

The really good news (I think ) is that shining a torch in to the chassis through the holes has revealed what looks to be a very good inside with very little evidence of rust at all. That being the case I think I'm going to get it plated with 3mm steel in a full section running about 6 inches either side of the shock mount and also in the top of the chassis rail.

Couple of questions:

1. The big heavy crossmember just in front of the shocker mounts - what's it called and can you buy them already fabricated to weld on? (there are some holes in this and it looks like it could do with replacing - it'll also provide better access to weld the top of the chassis rail).

2. Dave W (primarily) - you mentioned in an earlier post the bracket that holds the fuel tank on to the chassis (radius arm?) - is this something that should be permenantly fixed to the chassis (welded) and then bolts on to the fuel tank? Can this be bought separately and what is it's proper name.

Thanks for the comments on the galv chassis - I could easily see myself forking out £1,200 for the chassis plus another grand for all the other bits I'd feel compelled to replace as I rebuit it. It's not an everyday use vehicle, just going to use it for trialling really so can't justify spending loads on it.

Keep the comments/opinions coming.

Cheers

Mark

[Bo]

A lot of the chassis components are common across Defender and Range Rover Classic, having scrapped a good few RRC's and a couple of 90's I have a pile of "just in case" good part chassis for repairing rear ends. You are welcome to come and have a look and see if any of then are of any use to cut up as repair sections.

[varleym]

Latest photo's. Maybe it's just me - but one you start undoing bolts and taking things off you can't stop - it's like a drug

Anyway, final decision is whether to take the bulkhead off. There's a bit of rot at the botton but I think I can sort that out without removing the bulkhead itself. The outriggers are absolutely perfect - no sign of rot at all.

Found one or two dodgy bits with the 200 TDi installation - such as the power steering reservoir just propped up against the wing - not held on at all.

Hey ho - something else for the "To Do" list!

Cheers

Mark

[varleym]

OK - just made a list of the bits I need so far. If anyone's got any of this lot kicking round the garage I'd be more than pleased to hear from you and do a deal:

Front Shockers
Front turrets and rings
Rear Shockers
N/s and O/s bulkhead bottom brackets
N/s and O/s footwell repair panels
N/a and O/s seat box sides
Front discs
O/s rear tubular outrigger
Radiator (200 TDi)
Radiator shroud/duct/cowl

That's it for now - no doubt the list will grow as time goes on.

Cheers

Mark

[jim]

Mark

I am breaking a Discovery and i think the turrets are the same as 90 ones. They look to be in good condition but need removing to check. You are welcome to them if you can remove them.

Check out the convertable Disco!

Cheers Jim

[varleym]

It looks about the same condition as my 90. Like the use of expanding foam around the top of the bulkhead - nice touch.

PM me with you phone number/address and I'll come and have a look. I've got the old ones off as a match.

Cheers

Mark

[Matthews]

I've got a 110 rolling chassis and bulkhead at work (my old challenge 110), if you are iterested in the bulkhead let me know as it won't be expensive, needs a couple of small patches at the top but all the bottom has been prevously done by me , got a pair of lovells front shockers, a few turrets both standard and lowered, set of retaining rings, front springs to give you a bit of a lift give me a shout if interested in anything
Matthew
07977910221

[bandiflip]

I want a garage like that !!!!!!!!!

[Bo]

Poor Henry, even though he is smiling, deep down you can tell he is sad.