Crankshaft Damper bolt

[varleym]

Before I start fabricating one, has anyone around the Harrogate area either got or made a 'tool' to hold the crankshaft damper in one place whilst you try and unscrew the 30mm damper nut?

Manual mentions a length of flat bar fixed to the damper via a couple of the pulley bolt holes, although you've got to cut a section out of the bar for it to sit flush against the damper as it would foul the damper nut itself.

Cheers

Mark

[kingsonlim]

Hi Mark,

I have a crank shaft pulley holding tool for a 300tdi crank pulley (tho it actually belongs to Matthew now as I swap it with him for an injection pump).

http://shop.difflock.com/land-rover-cra ... -p-98.html

Richard should be coming my way this saturday morning, and you could probably pick it up from him around noon to afternoon. And it'll be appreciated if you can then bring it to Briercliffe so that i can pass it to Matthew officially.

[Zedman]

If you want to pick it up from me just call me on 01423 547 205 one evening to arrange a time ( and to make sure I remembered to get it )

[kingsonlim]

I'll put it next to the Nato Hitch you are picking up then....lol

[varleym]

Thanks chaps.

[Bo]

Be warned, for some reason these can be very tight on the 200s so you may need a good quality 3/4" drive strong bar and socket. We broke two good quality 1/2" ones when we did Rod's before getting a 3/4" one. Standard practice is to use the starter to crank the strong arm against the chassis rail negating the need for the locking tool. You could do this in the bare chassis with a pair of jump leads and shorting the solenoid.

[kingsonlim]

Ermmmm......don't think mark's 90 is in 'starting' mode yet...lol

[varleym]

You're right Kingson - mine's very much in 'zero emissions' mode at the minute and will probably be for some time

[nicks90]

we had some proper 'issues' getting that bolt off on hadyns 200tdi. He bought a pulley tool and we snapped it. ok - did have 6 foot of scaff pole over his breaker bar and 19st of hadyn swinging on it though...
Ended up with me in the cab with the truck in gear and stamping on the brakes to prevent the whole vehicle moving forward and hadyn swinging on the bar again!
still didnt work - it just caused the clutch to slip

ended up giving it a 'bit' of heat and repeatedly zapping the bolt with his rattle gun. Took about a dozen "heat, rattle rattle" before the bolt eventually let go.


good luck with it.

[Jabba]

Standard practice is to use the starter to crank the strong arm against the chassis rail negating the need for the locking tool. You could do this in the bare chassis with a pair of jump leads and shorting the solenoid.

I used this method to undo the pulley bolt on mine. You actually DON'T want it to start and should (normally) remove the fuel cutoff solenoid wire before trying this. So you should be able to do it on yours Mark. Just make sure the breaker bar is fully resting on the chassis rail (I think I tied mine on) before cranking the engine. All you are doing is using the starter motor to provide the grunt to undo the bolt, so as long as the motor will crank its OK. Makes one hell of a bang when it releases though

[dave willard]

Hi
I have memoved several of these nut with the engine in & out of vehicle

My method should you want to try it that works is-

Remove the power to the pump shut off solenoid located on spade terminal


Put a good quality socket/bar with a tube over the bar so that it is against the os chassis

Flick the starter to loosen the nut I mean flick do not let the starter run

Providing care is taken to ensure the bar is square etc this will work

To tighten get the engine on compression stroke, then with a long tube on the bar (longer than the one used to remove it) hit the bar with a heavey hammer repeat several times getting on compression stroke each time
I do this from above as a longer bar can be used

Finally mark the nut with paint so if it moves you can see it & check it after miles etc
I have used this on my auto, on a manual you can also used the transmission as well as compression to hold the crank

I also used an iair mpact driver but if the rad is still in you cant get to the nut

I have a locking tool that replaces the starter motor to hold the crank if you want to borrow it
Dave

[varleym]

Dave

Kingson's lending me a home made piece of bar that attaches to a couple of the crankshaft pulley bolts, however I'm a bit wary of shearing the bolts off if the crank damper bolt is going to require some significant 'persuasion' to loosen it. Would your 'starter motor replacement' gadget (and the various components between it and the crank damper bolt) stand up to a good hammering?

Cheers

Mark

[dave willard]

Dave

Kingson's lending me a home made piece of bar that attaches to a couple of the crankshaft pulley bolts, however I'm a bit wary of shearing the bolts off if the crank damper bolt is going to require some significant 'persuasion' to loosen it. Would your 'starter motor replacement' gadget (and the various components between it and the crank damper bolt) stand up to a good hammering?

Cheers

Mark

Yes it engages on three teeth of the flywheel

but why not try using the starter motor or air impact wrench

What situation your engine in is it out of vehicle has rad been removed ??



dave

[kingsonlim]

http://shop.difflock.com/land-rover-cra ... -p-98.html

I do hope this is a professionally made item and not the shit quality home made item from my garage

Dave, would you happen to pass my place between now and saturday morning? If you are maybe it's good if you can drop off the other locking tool at the starter to me. Richard can then pass both tool to Mark, and I'll pass it back to you once he is done with it. I am home most time as I work from home. Give me a call before coming....07799695771.

[varleym]

Dave

Engine has just (the other night) been fixed onto the rolling chassis - see pics above. No ancillaries or pipework have yet been fitted.

Cheers

Mark