Auto electrician
Auto electrician
Does ANYONE know a good auto electrician that knows Discoverys??
3 sparkys later and I'm still none the wiser whats wrong with my motor!
What did people do to repair cars before computers were invented to diagnose them?
3 sparkys later and I'm still none the wiser whats wrong with my motor!
What did people do to repair cars before computers were invented to diagnose them?
If I can't fix it, I bodge it!
throw your multimeter in the bin and use a test lamp.
if i had used a small test lamp, i would have fixed my whacky lighting issues in about 30 minutes flat. Instead it took me hours to find that my column switch had a good circuit until you put a load on it (test lamp) and then it tripped out. The multimeter didnt cause the switch to trip so i thought it was fine and ended up rewiring most of the lighting circuit in a hopeless attempt at brute forcing a fix through blind panic and guesswork,
Nick
if i had used a small test lamp, i would have fixed my whacky lighting issues in about 30 minutes flat. Instead it took me hours to find that my column switch had a good circuit until you put a load on it (test lamp) and then it tripped out. The multimeter didnt cause the switch to trip so i thought it was fine and ended up rewiring most of the lighting circuit in a hopeless attempt at brute forcing a fix through blind panic and guesswork,
Nick
Bugger!
Another bloody dent...
Another bloody dent...
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davew
- Chairman
- Posts: 2242
- Joined: Fri Jan 05, 2007 8:54 pm
- Location: Knaresborough
- Full Name: Dave White
From conversations I've had with Dave and Matthew there are three different problems. It may be there is some connection between them but it's unlikely.
The first is a classic spider fault, the voltage to the stop solenoid is at around 8v. Almost certainly caused by a faulty spider unit, best fix is to bypass the spider unit altogether for that circuit. That can be done from the multiplug at the left hand side of the driver's footwell from what I remember. That's assuming it's not an EDC 300TDi, as the EDC version and the EGR versions use a slightly different arrangement.
The second is the battery discharging which could be a number of things. First step would be to check it's actually charging. If it is then turn everything off and measure the current flow from the battery. If it's anything significant (more than 1A) start pulling fuses until it drops to narrow down the "leak".
The third is an intermittent brake light fault which shouldn't be hard to either find or bypass.
The first is a classic spider fault, the voltage to the stop solenoid is at around 8v. Almost certainly caused by a faulty spider unit, best fix is to bypass the spider unit altogether for that circuit. That can be done from the multiplug at the left hand side of the driver's footwell from what I remember. That's assuming it's not an EDC 300TDi, as the EDC version and the EGR versions use a slightly different arrangement.
The second is the battery discharging which could be a number of things. First step would be to check it's actually charging. If it is then turn everything off and measure the current flow from the battery. If it's anything significant (more than 1A) start pulling fuses until it drops to narrow down the "leak".
The third is an intermittent brake light fault which shouldn't be hard to either find or bypass.
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davew
- Chairman
- Posts: 2242
- Joined: Fri Jan 05, 2007 8:54 pm
- Location: Knaresborough
- Full Name: Dave White
Dave's Disco is currently in residence at MKS Classics (Matthew's garage). It seems it's a later version than the ever unreliable spider and is the even more unreliable electronic 300TDi.
Current diagnosis is that the ECU has died, has anyone got a spare 300TDi mechanical injector pump so it can be "downgraded" ?
Current diagnosis is that the ECU has died, has anyone got a spare 300TDi mechanical injector pump so it can be "downgraded" ?
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