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bandiflip
Posts: 1166
Joined: Sat Sep 13, 2008 10:14 pm
Location: Bradford
Full Name: phil johnson

Get into the groove !

Postby bandiflip » Sun Jul 17, 2011 9:52 pm

Well,decided to check my motor over today ready for the laning trip in a couple of weeks....removed the rear wheel to check the brakes which made me swear !!
The outside pad had worn and slipped through the caliper,it then came to rest on the hub part of the disc and decided to wear a 3mm deep groove in the disc. All it would taken was a decent emergency stop or a lengthy application at speed for it rip apart basically....So...if you hear a little grinding noise coming from your brakes, DO NOT shrug it off as a stone stuck in your pad...HAVE A LOOK !
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do you know the meaning of Nemesis ???
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Bo
Posts: 682
Joined: Sat Jan 27, 2007 6:35 pm
Location: WF10
Full Name: Scot Chegg

Postby Bo » Sun Jul 17, 2011 10:08 pm

Have you hand crafted those calipers out of a piece of sandstone or are they just a bit grotty? :lol:
5/4 of people admit that they’re bad with fractions.
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bandiflip
Posts: 1166
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Full Name: phil johnson

Postby bandiflip » Sun Jul 17, 2011 10:11 pm

There a bit muddy....agreed
do you know the meaning of Nemesis ???
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TwoSheds
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Location: M1/M62
Full Name: Roger Watkinson

Postby TwoSheds » Mon Jul 18, 2011 5:08 am

wow... Lucky escape!
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Matthews
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Full Name: Matthew Sykes

Postby Matthews » Mon Jul 18, 2011 8:29 am

Common problem caused by corroded calipers, I ran with corroded calipers on the 110 for about 8 years and just put a small blob of weld on the edge of the brake pad affected before fitting them.
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bandiflip
Posts: 1166
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Full Name: phil johnson

Postby bandiflip » Mon Jul 18, 2011 5:56 pm

was thinking of doin same to caliper actually...pad sounds good tho
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Matthews
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Full Name: Matthew Sykes

Postby Matthews » Mon Jul 18, 2011 5:59 pm

pads easier than trying to weld cast rust!
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TwoSheds
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Full Name: Roger Watkinson

Postby TwoSheds » Tue Jul 19, 2011 5:09 am

Matthews wrote:pads easier than trying to weld cast rust!

Try to not use too much heat and perhaps get a heat sink in there - I did this once about 30 years ago (admittedly with a stick welder and a fairly old pad) and the friction material lifted where the heat was...
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bandiflip
Posts: 1166
Joined: Sat Sep 13, 2008 10:14 pm
Location: Bradford
Full Name: phil johnson

Postby bandiflip » Sat Jul 23, 2011 11:45 pm

If a job's worth doing...It's worth doing right !!
Are the new calipers clean enough for ya Bo ?? :lol:
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Bo
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Full Name: Scot Chegg

Postby Bo » Sun Jul 24, 2011 12:48 am

bandiflip wrote:Are the new calipers clean enough for ya Bo ?? :lol:

Bit Bling now mate! :lol:
5/4 of people admit that they’re bad with fractions.
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TwoSheds
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Full Name: Roger Watkinson

Postby TwoSheds » Sun Jul 24, 2011 6:20 am

That looks very nice - where did you get the calliper? Is it Rover or pattern?

Aren't you going to paint the calliper red? :twisted:
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bandiflip
Posts: 1166
Joined: Sat Sep 13, 2008 10:14 pm
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Full Name: phil johnson

Postby bandiflip » Sun Jul 24, 2011 8:07 am

I have replaced both rear calipers, both are Bearmach units, £70 fir the pair all in, also bought a de-cat pipe and a straight thru pipe so I can bin the silencer... That's today's job. :)
But no..... No red paint here !!! :)
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tecnick
Posts: 969
Joined: Tue Jan 09, 2007 9:52 am
Location: Leeds
Full Name: Nick Adams

Postby tecnick » Sun Jul 24, 2011 9:27 am

Nice but seems a lot of work for a motor which will be on the bay before long :lol:

Cheers Nick
If it ain't broke, I'd be bloody suprised.
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