Novice building a wreck!

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madcalc
Posts: 229
Joined: Sat Mar 07, 2009 7:46 pm
Location: leeds
Full Name: david medd

Postby madcalc » Fri Oct 23, 2009 7:40 pm

Help! may sound daft but follow the plot!
Bought 2 rubber couplings for prop shaft recently 1 to replace torn one and one as a spare but found after that the reason I'm destroying them is I have 4" lift on rear (while front is 2"). Adivce from that was to buy an off-road shaft with more angle on it. it came with 4 bolt holes at bottom end so had to buy adaptor(see pic). Am I right in saying that the adaptor replaces the plate in the rear diff, couples straight to the new shaft and the rubbers go in the bin? Am I doing the right thing? And what breaks instead of the rubbers? :oops:
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jim
Posts: 307
Joined: Sun Jan 07, 2007 8:53 am
Location: Harrogate
Full Name: James Poulton

Postby jim » Fri Oct 23, 2009 8:37 pm

My Discovery is showing signs that the rubber propshaft joint is going to fail soon and i am thinking of changing to a conventional propshaft. All my previous Land Rovers have had a standard propshaft and have given good service with the occasional joint change.
The flange nut requires setting to a specified torque and it is necessary to fit a new oil seal when replacing it.
This is all the info i have and some of the other club members may be able to help further. :lol:

Cheers Jim
Jim Poulton :)

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Bo
Posts: 682
Joined: Sat Jan 27, 2007 6:35 pm
Location: WF10
Full Name: Scot Chegg

Postby Bo » Fri Oct 23, 2009 8:38 pm

Hi Mate,
Just bin the rubber ring, it's about as much use a chocolate fireguard.
On the diff nose, you will now be left with a flange with three bolt holes and no obvious way of removing it. In the middle of the spigot that sticks out there should be a threaded hole, M8 from memory, find a set screw (a bolt with a thread that goes all the way to the head) that will screw in and is about 100mm long, then use it to carfully jack out the centre boss. Now you can remove the large nut that holds the flange on. When I changed mine I had to make a spacer as the conventional flange I used from a 90 axle was shorter on the splined section, hopefully if yours is part of a kit it should be right but compare it to the one you take out before fitting it. If you get stuck, give me a call on 07748767383.
Bo
5/4 of people admit that they’re bad with fractions.

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tecnick
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Joined: Tue Jan 09, 2007 9:52 am
Location: Leeds
Full Name: Nick Adams

Postby tecnick » Sat Oct 24, 2009 1:53 pm

All good tips guys, David, I put two inch lift front and back and have had reasonable wear from my rubber thing, however the motor does look a bit lower at the back, I added some upside down spring seats to make it look taller but not really the answer. Is that why you went for four at the back?
How many inches has everyone else got?

Cheers Nick

P.S Dont Bin rubber bits, sell them to me in order to buy beer.
If it ain't broke, I'd be bloody suprised.

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madcalc
Posts: 229
Joined: Sat Mar 07, 2009 7:46 pm
Location: leeds
Full Name: david medd

Postby madcalc » Sat Oct 24, 2009 9:04 pm

bought lift kit second hand. Was told " little springs to front, big springs to back" Being a novice I thought it was supposed to be like that!! Wonder what it would look like and handle with Phils body lift spacers as well? Will bring rubbers for Nick and Jim to meeting

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tecnick
Posts: 969
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Location: Leeds
Full Name: Nick Adams

Postby tecnick » Sat Oct 24, 2009 9:33 pm

Thanks, I have always thought mine was wrong. looks like you got the right advice. Who knows. I think my next rears will be a bit taller, unless I buy a corsa or summat :roll:

Cheers Nick.
If it ain't broke, I'd be bloody suprised.

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Bo
Posts: 682
Joined: Sat Jan 27, 2007 6:35 pm
Location: WF10
Full Name: Scot Chegg

Postby Bo » Mon Oct 26, 2009 9:37 am

When we originally built Rod's Rangie, it had the Starsky and Hutch stance so we swapped the springs front to rear and it sat nice and level but plus 2 inch. Now it's bobtailed that's a different barrel of cotton buds as the weight reduction has caused it to reach skyward again at the back and the TDi has pulled the front down. When I built the Disco I put the slightly longer springs on the front, my logic was that was the heavy end so would sink the most. It might be worth a swap front to rear. Have the springs got a colour code painted on them? If so it might be worth having a look here,
http://www.landroverclub.net/Club/HTML/Spring_rates.html
5/4 of people admit that they’re bad with fractions.

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madcalc
Posts: 229
Joined: Sat Mar 07, 2009 7:46 pm
Location: leeds
Full Name: david medd

Postby madcalc » Wed Jan 27, 2010 5:49 pm

Well got the calling! "Get all of that crap out of my living room you *$@#er!!" from the wife, So taking next week off to get all the bits fitted. So expect stupid questions from me on here and keep your phones on!! Will add pics as I go along (like "where does this bit go?) :roll:
If I can't fix it, I bodge it!

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madcalc
Posts: 229
Joined: Sat Mar 07, 2009 7:46 pm
Location: leeds
Full Name: david medd

Postby madcalc » Wed Feb 03, 2010 6:38 pm

Well got it apart just need to figure out how to put it back together!
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If I can't fix it, I bodge it!

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Matthews
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Full Name: Matthew Sykes

Postby Matthews » Wed Feb 03, 2010 8:58 pm

David , what are you doing to it, changing the front axle as no springs or hockey sticks is an unusual position to be in unless swapping axles ?
Matthew

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madcalc
Posts: 229
Joined: Sat Mar 07, 2009 7:46 pm
Location: leeds
Full Name: david medd

Postby madcalc » Thu Feb 04, 2010 7:35 pm

I'm swapping the springs so the big ones are on the front, putting on new castor arms and steering rods and replacing the bushes. The rear is a secret as I don't know myself yet! Nice to work undercover for a change and leave the tools all over! :twisted:
If I can't fix it, I bodge it!

TwoSheds
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Joined: Thu Jan 18, 2007 8:01 pm
Location: M1/M62
Full Name: Roger Watkinson

Postby TwoSheds » Fri Feb 05, 2010 5:44 am

madcalc wrote:Nice to work undercover for a change and leave the tools all over! :twisted:

Luxury!
You'll be going all soft and southern and getting a heater in there next...
;)

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madcalc
Posts: 229
Joined: Sat Mar 07, 2009 7:46 pm
Location: leeds
Full Name: david medd

Postby madcalc » Wed Feb 10, 2010 7:58 pm

So who's idea was it to switch the springs? Gone from Starsky & Hutch to Free Willy! Well it's back to the drawing board :oops:
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If I can't fix it, I bodge it!

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Matthews
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Postby Matthews » Thu Feb 11, 2010 1:29 pm

Have a look at the spring set up in the photo, it'll give you about 3/4" lift.
Matthew
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Rod
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Location: Leeds
Full Name: tony

Postby Rod » Thu Feb 11, 2010 8:52 pm

Im not sure if this will help or not
I put a 2" lift on the rangie then bobtailed it and fitted a log burner at the front.
This made the car nose heavey.
So I them got some 3" lift springs for the front only which apears to have solved my problem
Having taken the 2" lift springs off they are sat on a self in the play room next to a set of standard disco front spring which are taller but I think the gadge is smaller.
The 2" spring are 390mm tail
The Disco springs are 410mm tail
Are you sure you have the correct springs for a log burner
Stercus fit !


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