Roger's RRC: An update
Bo wrote:Roger, the mods you are looking to do are a piece of p!$$ that require Landrover special tool number 3 (9" grinder) a bit of number 1 and a couple of squirts with the electric glue gun (tool number 5). A good weekend should have it done.
Yeah - but you know me!
Tonight I got the roof screws out and everything ready to cut. My plan is to do a rough cut with a 9" grinder about 3" further to the rear than the final one, and then finish things off with the 4.5". Then I need to set about building a closure using the original upper tailgate and some other stuff... Not sure what yet. My thinking on the roof edge is to merely put some trim along it and let it overhang by an inch.
It's going to look a right mess but... "whatever"...
Roger
Roger, I would leave the roof in place or if your swapping it do that first. You need the roof to be as solid as possible when you do the back of the cab. If you chop the roof there's a chance it will wobble about and make fabricating up to it difficult. Bend a piece of 1/8" strip steel so it follows the same profile as the under side of the roof. Use this as a starting point for your fabrication. Weld it up against the underside of the roof, between the remains of the roof rails that the roof secures to. I would also be tempted to put in a piece of 1" box between the rails at the angle you intend the cap back to be at and fabricate down to it. Once that is in place, you can then unbolt and lift the rear of the roof, then use something like Sikaflex to bond the roof down to it. Once it is dry trim the roof so it overhangs about an 1/8", then slowly work it down to tidy up the edge and seal that. Doing it this way you won't end up with leaks. If you bend material up over the top you are left with gaps that the rain blows in to due to the profile of the roof.
5/4 of people admit that they’re bad with fractions.
I never did know when to stop...
Once I got going with the grinder... Well it seemed like a good idea at the time:
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